Home > A Guide to Ferns

A Guide to Ferns

A simple guide to ferns for your house and garden. What they are, what they need, and how not to kill them.
Disclaimer: Images on this page are for illustration and inspiration. They represent common houseplants and indoor garden styles, not specific homes or plant collections.

Ferns are old. Like, dinosaur-old. They don't have flowers or seeds, but they do have weirdly named parts and a talent for making any room look like a miniature jungle. Here's what you need to know about them.

The Oldest Plants on the Block

Ferns were greening up the planet long before flowers ever showed up. These plants are living fossils, with records stretching back over 360 million years. 1 That means they were here before the dinosaurs.

A lush, primeval forest dominated by giant tree ferns with a dinosaur, like a Stegosaurus, grazing in the background under a misty sky.

Back in the Carboniferous period, giant fern forests covered the Earth. As these massive plants died, they got buried and eventually became the coal and natural gas we use today. 1 So yeah, the energy in your car is basically sunshine captured by a fern millions of years ago.

They’re tough, too. A Stegosaurus might have munched on them for lunch, and they survived the asteroid that wiped out all their dinosaur friends. 4 In fact, ferns were some of the first plants to grow back after the big kaboom. 7

Their appeal comes from this ancient vibe and their incredible variety. Some look like delicate lace (Maidenhair ferns), while others have big, solid leaves (Bird's Nest ferns). 2 This makes them perfect for adding a bit of lush, green texture to just about any space.

A collection of various fern types in a bright, humid greenhouse, showcasing different frond shapes and textures.

Learning the Lingo

The common name for these plants is just... "fern." That one word covers thousands of species in the scientific class Polypodiopsida (try saying that five times fast), which is part of a bigger group called Pteridophyta . 9

What really makes a fern a fern is how it makes more ferns. They don't do flowers or seeds. Instead, they reproduce using tiny, dust-like spores. 3

Basic Fern Parts

A fern's leaf is called a frond . 13 The frond has a stalk (the stipe ) and a leafy blade. The main stem running through the middle of the blade is the rachis , and the little leaflets branching off it are pinnae . 15

On some ferns, those pinnae are divided into even smaller bits called pinnules , which is what gives them that classic feathery look. 15 New fronds start out as tightly coiled spirals called fiddleheads or croziers, named because they look like the end of a violin. 4 Be nice to the fiddleheads, they're fragile.

Fronds grow from a special kind of stem called a rhizome , which usually creeps along or just under the soil. 15 A short, clumping rhizome gives you a dense tuft of fern, while a long, creeping one will spread out or trail over the side of a pot. 16

Flip a frond over, and you might see little clusters of spore cases. These are called sori (one is a sorus ) and can look like dots or lines. 16 They are not a disease or a pest infestation... they're a sign of a healthy, grown-up fern ready to make babies.

An educational diagram illustrating the parts of a fern frond, with labels pointing to the stipe, rachis, pinna, pinnule, and sori on the underside of a leaflet.

Ferns for Your House

Ferns are great for bringing a bit of the forest indoors. The key is knowing what kind you have. Some are terrestrial (they grow in soil) and others are epiphytic (they grow on other plants, like trees). This one difference explains almost everything about how to care for them.

The Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)

You've probably seen a Boston Fern. It has long, arching fronds up to three feet long, covered in little sword-shaped leaflets that make it look super full and feathery. 20, 22 They look great in hanging baskets or on a stand where their fronds can hang down.

A lush Boston Fern with long, arching fronds spilling out of a hanging basket in a brightly lit room.

This fern likes bright, indirect light, like near an east-facing window. 23 Keep its soil moist but not soggy, watering whenever the top inch feels dry. 22, 24 The most important thing is humidity, they love it (50-80% is ideal). 22 Put it in a bathroom, use a pebble tray, or get a humidifier, otherwise you'll get brown, crispy tips. 24

Humidity is Key: Boston Ferns need high humidity (ideally 50-80%) to avoid brown, crispy leaf tips. A bathroom, a humidifier, or a pebble tray can provide the moisture they crave.

Besides looking good, the Boston Fern also purifies indoor air and is non-toxic to pets and kids. 21 A solid choice.

The Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum)

This is the pretty, delicate one. It has fan-shaped leaflets that seem to float on thin, black stems, giving it a light, airy look. 26 People think it's a diva because it has one major rule...

A macro shot of a Maidenhair Fern, highlighting its delicate, fan-shaped green leaflets on wiry, black stems.
The Golden Rule: A Maidenhair Fern must *never* dry out completely. If the soil becomes bone dry, its delicate fronds can shrivel and die almost instantly. Consistent moisture is non-negotiable.

...it must NEVER dry out. Seriously. If the soil goes completely dry, the fronds will shrivel into a crispy mess almost overnight. 29 You have to keep the soil evenly moist all the time, which might mean checking it daily. 27

It also likes bright, indirect light and a warm spot away from drafts, between 65-75°F. 26, 28 If you can keep up with its drinking habit, the Maidenhair Fern is one of the most beautiful plants you can own.

The Bird's Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus)

This one doesn't look like a typical fern. Instead of lacy fronds, it has wide, spear-shaped leaves with wavy edges. 31 They grow out from the middle in a circle, looking like a little green bird's nest. 31

A Bird's Nest Fern in a ceramic pot, showing its unique rosette of wide, wavy, bright green leaves.

In the wild, this fern is an epiphyte, meaning it grows on trees instead of in the ground. 31 That's why it needs a very loose, airy potting mix at home, like an orchid mix. 32 It can handle lower light than other ferns, though it'll grow slower. 31

Watering Tip: Always water the soil around a Bird's Nest Fern, not directly into the central 'nest'. Pouring water into the center can trap moisture and cause crown rot, which can kill the plant.

The most important tip: water the soil, not the plant. Pouring water into the central "nest" can make it rot, which will kill it. 31 It's a tough, non-toxic plant that won't outgrow its pot too quickly, making it a great, low-maintenance choice. 31

The Staghorn Fern (Platycerium)

This fern looks like living art. It's an epiphyte that's usually grown mounted on a piece of wood, just like it would grow on a tree trunk. 37 It has two kinds of fronds. The first are small, flat "shield" fronds that protect the roots, they turn brown and papery but don't remove them, they're important. 37

A large Staghorn Fern mounted on a dark wooden plaque hanging on a white wall, its antler-like fronds reaching outwards.

The second kind are the big, showy fronds that look like the antlers of a stag or elk, which is where it gets its name. 39 It needs more light than most ferns, so give it a spot with bright, indirect sun. 38

To water it, take the whole thing to the sink and soak the root ball and shield fronds for 10-20 minutes, then let it drip dry completely before hanging it back up. 37, 40 Do this about once a week in summer, and less in winter. 37 It's a non-toxic showstopper. 38

The Rabbit's Foot Fern (Davallia fejeensis)

The fronds are pretty, lacy, and triangular, but that's not why people love this fern. 43 The main attraction is its rhizomes, which are thick, fuzzy, and light-brown. They creep over the edge of the pot and look just like a rabbit's foot. 43

A close-up of a Rabbit's Foot Fern, with a focus on the fuzzy, light-brown rhizomes creeping over the edge of the terracotta pot.

It's an epiphyte, so it needs a very airy potting mix. 44 Give it bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist. 43, 44 The fuzzy rhizomes can actually absorb moisture from the air, so they love being misted regularly along with the fronds. 43

The Button Fern (Pellaea rotundifolia)

A perfect little fern for small spaces. It has a low, trailing habit with wiry fronds. 45 Its leaflets are small, round, and leathery, looking like little green buttons strung along the stems.

A small Button Fern with its distinctive round, button-like leaflets on trailing stems, potted in a small decorative container on a bookshelf.

It's a bit tougher than other ferns and can handle slightly drier air. 45 But don't let it dry out completely, the soil should stay moist. It does need high humidity to keep its "buttons" from getting brown edges, so misting is a good idea. 45 Its small size makes it a great plant for a desk, bookshelf, or terrarium.

Ferns for Your Garden

Lots of ferns are happy to live outside, turning shady spots into lush green getaways. They add great texture next to plants with big leaves, like hostas. Just be sure to pick the right one, some stay in a neat clump, while others like to spread out and take over.

The Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)

This fern is a giant for the shade garden, growing in a big, vase-shaped clump up to six feet tall. 47 Its huge, arching fronds look like ostrich feathers. 48 In the spring, it produces edible fiddleheads, a fancy treat if you cook them. 48

A towering, vase-shaped clump of Ostrich Ferns in a lush, shady garden, demonstrating their large size and feathery appearance.
Gardener's Warning: Ostrich Ferns are aggressive spreaders. Their underground rhizomes can quickly form a dense colony, so plant them where they have room to roam or use root barriers to keep them contained.

It loves shady, wet spots with rich soil, think riverbanks or bogs. 47, 48 But be warned: this fern is aggressive. It spreads fast with underground rhizomes and will form a dense colony, so give it plenty of space or use barriers to keep it contained. 50 It's hardy in USDA zones 3-7. 52

The Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum)

This fern is all about color. Its fronds are a cool mix of silvery-gray, blue-green, and a deep purple or burgundy stripe down the middle. 53 It's a great way to brighten up a dark corner of the garden.

A close-up of a Japanese Painted Fern, showcasing its unique fronds with silvery-gray surfaces and a deep purple rachis.

It stays in a tidy clump, growing about 18-24 inches tall and wide. 53 For the best color, plant it in light to partial shade. 53 It needs rich, moist, well-drained soil and doesn't like to dry out. 54 It's hardy in USDA zones 3-9 and deer tend to leave it alone. 54

The Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides)

The best thing about this fern is that it's evergreen. The tough, dark green fronds stick around all winter, which is how it got its name, people used it for holiday decorations. 58 Its little leaflets are shaped like tiny Christmas stockings. 58

A clump of dark green Christmas Ferns in a winter garden, possibly with a light dusting of snow on the ground around them.

This fern is super adaptable. It forms a neat clump and doesn't spread aggressively. 58 It's happy in shade and can handle a wide range of soils, it's even drought-tolerant once it's established. 58 Hardy in USDA zones 3-9, it's a reliable, low-maintenance choice for year-round green. 60

The Cinnamon Fern (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum)

This big fern gets its name from its fertile fronds. 63 In the spring, stiff, narrow fronds covered in cinnamon-brown fluff pop up in the middle of the plant. 63 Soon after, the normal big, bright green fronds unfurl around them, growing up to five feet tall in a vase shape. 63 The green fronds turn a nice yellow in the fall. 63

A Cinnamon Fern in spring, with the distinct, cinnamon-colored fertile fronds standing upright in the center of the newly unfurling green fronds.

It loves moisture, so it's perfect for wet spots like rain gardens or pond edges. 63 It needs rich, acidic soil and partial to full shade. 63 It will form large clumps over time but isn't considered invasive. Hardy in USDA zones 3-10. 64, 65

The Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina)

The Lady Fern looks soft and delicate, but it's tougher than you'd think. It forms a dense clump of lacy, bright green fronds that grow two to three feet tall. 68 Its super fine texture looks great next to plants with bolder leaves. 69

A clump of bright green, feathery Lady Ferns next to a large-leafed Hosta plant to show textural contrast.

This is one of the easiest garden ferns to grow. It likes shade and moist soil, but it can handle more sun than most ferns (if the soil stays wet) and can tolerate drier soil once it's established. 68, 69 It's a fast-growing, reliable fern for almost any shady spot. Hardy in USDA zones 4-8. 69

The Main Fern Families

Ferns have evolved to live in all sorts of places, from rainforest canopies to ponds. Looking at these main groups shows just how adaptable they are. Understanding their lifestyle is the real key to taking care of them.

Tree Ferns

Just like the name says, these are ferns that grow like trees. They have a vertical trunk with a big crown of fronds at the top, some can get over 60 feet tall. 8 The "trunk" isn't wood, it's a tough, upright rhizome wrapped in a thick mat of roots. 73 The most common types are Dicksonia and Cyathea . 73 They give any garden an instant prehistoric, jungle feel.

A grove of tall tree ferns with fibrous trunks and large crowns of fronds, creating a canopy overhead.

Epiphytic Ferns

An epiphyte is a plant that grows on another plant (like a tree) without harming it. 78 They do this to get better light than they would on the dark forest floor. They get all their water and food from rain, the air, and any dead leaves that fall on them. 44

An epiphytic fern, like a Bird's Nest Fern, growing in the crook of a large, moss-covered tree branch in a rainforest.

Many popular houseplants are epiphytes, like the Bird's Nest Fern and Staghorn Fern. 78 This is why they need airy, soilless potting mixes and love high humidity, it's just like home for them.

Aquatic Ferns

Some ferns gave up on land and decided to live in the water. They might float on the surface or be rooted in the mud of a pond or stream. 81 Many don't look like ferns at all.

The surface of a pond covered in a dense, green mat of Mosquito Fern (Azolla), an aquatic fern.

Mosquito Fern ( Azolla ) and Water Spangles ( Salvinia ) are tiny floating plants that can cover a pond's surface. 84 Others, like Java Fern ( Microsorum pteropus ), grow completely underwater and are popular in aquariums. 86

How Not to Kill Your Fern

Most common indoor ferns want the same basic things because they all evolved in shady, moist forests. If you can copy those conditions at home, you'll be fine. When something goes wrong, it's almost always a problem with humidity, water, or light.

Humidity is Everything

The dry air in our homes is the biggest enemy of most ferns. They come from rainforests where the air is always damp. 45 When humidity drops, the tips of the fronds get brown and crispy because they lose water faster than the roots can suck it up. 88

Boost Humidity: To combat dry indoor air, place ferns in naturally humid rooms like bathrooms, group them with other plants, use a pebble tray with water, or run a humidifier nearby.

To fix this, put your fern in a bathroom or kitchen. 45 You can also group plants together or place the pot on a tray of pebbles and water. The best solution, especially in winter, is to run a humidifier nearby. 45

The Right Way to Water

The rule for ferns is "moist, but not soggy." Letting the soil dry out completely will lead to crispy, wilting fronds. 89 But keeping the soil soaked is even worse, it will drown the roots and cause them to rot. 92

Check the soil with your finger. When the top inch feels a little dry, it's time to water. Pour water in until it runs out the drainage holes, then dump out any extra water from the saucer. Using rainwater or distilled water is a nice bonus, as some ferns are sensitive to tap water. 45

Getting the Light Right

Ferns are "shade plants," but a dark corner in your house is usually too dark. Most ferns need bright, indirect light. 45 Think of the dappled light on a forest floor.

A spot near a north or east-facing window is perfect. Too much direct sun will scorch the fronds and turn them yellow or brown. 45 Too little light will lead to slow, spindly growth and pale leaves. 45

Common Problems and Fixes

If your fern looks sad, it's time to play detective. Here are the usual suspects.

Crispy, brown tips? This is usually a water problem. If the soil is dry, you're underwatering. 89 If the soil is moist but the air is dry, you need more humidity. 88 It could also be sunburn if the plant is in direct light. 92

Yellow, limp fronds? You're probably overwatering. 89 If the soil is soggy and smells musty, you may have root rot. You'll need to repot the plant in fresh soil, trimming off any brown, mushy roots first. 93 Then, water less often.

Bugs? Pests can sometimes show up. Scale insects look like tiny, hard brown bumps that don't move. 95 Mealybugs are tiny, white, cottony blobs that hide in crevices. 95 Spider mites are almost invisible, but you'll see their fine, silky webs on the plant. 96 You can wipe off small numbers of pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. For bigger problems, spray the plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. 96

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